Monday, September 9, 2019

Long Story Short: Niu Valley Surfing

Back in 1954 my parents bought a house in Niu Valley. In those days it was a rural area with little development beyond Aina Haina and Niu Valley. Hawaii Kai was just fish ponds and pig farms deep in the valleys. I attended Aina Haina Elementary, Niu Valley Intermediate and Kalani High School. I can’t imagine a better place to grow up and explore. We played army in the fields, hiked up the ridge and camped in the pine groves, walked down to the ocean and went out on Pfluegers Pier to swim and surf.
Gerry Lopez, Dennis Pang and Randy Rarick were all Niu Valley surfers and we all had our own surf spots; from Piko, Reverse, Snipes and Toes. My particular spot was Reverse and Snipes and a crowded day had 6 of us out in the water. Of course Gerry, Dennis and Randy became well known in the Surf Community. 

My posse was comprised of Dana Ishibashi, David Lim, Donald Yukitomo, and Peter Dye. I loved surfing and competed in the Makaha International and moved to Hermosa Beach to go to school and Surf California. Finally got serious and came back to Honolulu and got my BFA from the University of Hawaii. Moved to Michigan and got my MFA from Michigan State University. Briefly moved back to Hawaii to teach and finally moved to Ann Arbor where I spent over 35+ years living and raising a family. I retired in 2015 and moved back to the family home in Niu Valley and have tried to bring back to life the house and yard. I still surf and will see Peter Dye occasionally in the water. In certain moments you can still feel the sensations of old, but extensive development has changed the landscape forever. Progress is a double edged sword.

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Snow day

Snow is sprinkling down and the piano fingers sprinkle the key boards in the background. Moody Friday.